Lesson  #5

Page 3
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French Sewn "Heirloom Sundress"

Now we are ready for the yoke pieces!

Step Four:

Take the full length of embroidered insertion and attach the lace or eyelet insertion to both sides. ( you can use two insertions for the bigger sizes) For a reference of heirloom techniques ,I suggest "Martha Pullen's  book French Machine Sewing"

If you are using netted laces (French), you will need to add entredeux to the top and bottom of this strip.  LEAVE THE OUTSIDE SELVAGE OF THE ENTREDEUX ATTACHED UNTIL LATER!

Now cut this band into two pieces according to the chart below for your size.

Yoke Size Chart

Size 1

8 3/4"

Size 2


Size 3

9 1/4"

Size 4

9 1/2"
Size 5 9 3/4"
Size 6 10"

I allowed extra so you could center a possible design in your insertion.

Step Five:

Attach entredeux to the sides, leaving the outside selvage of the entredeux attached until later.

Iron both pieces, pressing seams in towards the lace.

Step Six:

You will trim all selvages from the entredeux EXCEPT!! the bottom, leave this for the next step.

Step Seven:

Run two gathering threads across the top of both front and back skirts. 

 Hint: First gathering thread should be an 1/8" and the second thread should be 5/8"

Now draw up threads to fit yoke. Sew skirt to yokes using the selvage of the entredeux. Trim and zig zag with a tight stitch

 ( width 4, & length 1)


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